2022年6月16日 星期四

為什麼中國的 Shein 在快時尚領域擊敗 ASOS、H&M 和 Zara

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XCKnN6o19k

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If you had invested £1,000 in ASOS in 2001, it would have been worth 
more than £235,000 or $301,000 by the end of 2020.

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Today, ASOS is one of the largest online-only fashion marketplaces in the world, 

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boasting 850 brands including Dr. Martens, Abercrombie and Fitch,  and Calvin Klein. 
 

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Founded in the year 2000, shortly  
after the dotcom bubble burst,

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the platform was worth $8.6 billion atits peak, surpassing 
 retail stalwart Marks and Spencer in market capitalization. 

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Today, ASOS is available in 10   
languages across 200 markets.

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At the end of 2020, ASOS boasted  24.5 million active customers,

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of which 7.6 million were located in the United Kingdom. 

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Like many fashion start-ups, the company was 
unprofitable  for years, had its fair share of misfortunes,

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while a series of miscalculations saw  
the company exit China in 2016. 

1:03

 
So, how did this fast-fashion start-up 
  transform into a dominant player in the industry? 

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ASOS had its beginnings as a  TV product placement company, 

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founded by Nick Robertson, the great-grandson of wealthy retailer Austin Reed, in June 2000, under the name ‘As Seen on Screen.’

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The company later evolved its fashion business to an online fashion marketplace,

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selling designer outfit seen on celebrities at affordable prices.

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After a $4.2 million investment from his older brother and friends,

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the company debuted on the junior market of the London Stock Exchange in October 2001

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at £0.20 per share and raised  slightly over $4 million.

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Then, the e-commerce industry was struggling, and ASOS was unable to establish 

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a clear brand identity to break the dominance of traditional fashion retailers.

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For example, it was selling bags close to $600 to its market of twenty-somethings, making it unaffordable for many.   

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At the same time, the company was investing heavily in technology, logistics and increasing its product range.

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It wouldn’t be until 2004 that ASOS would post  its first profit, a little over $200,000.

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But this success appeared short-lived.

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A year later, three massive explosions at an oil depot  near its warehouse in the U.K. damaged $9.4 million worth of stock,

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just before the Christmas holidays, and along with it, ASOS’s festive earnings.

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The company was forced to cancel new orders, issue refunds and suspend trading of its stock.  

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But 2007 marked a turning point, not just for ASOS, but for the e-commerce industry as a whole.

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Broadband was increasingly becoming accessible to households,

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Apple just launched the first iPhone, while Facebook was trying to displace MySpace and Friendster as the dominant social media platform.

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Investors began to pay attention to online-only businesses, and ASOS was no exception.   

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Between 2007 and 2011, the company’s share price shot up from $2.36 to $38.50.

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ASOS’s popularity skyrocketed, as celebrities sported its outfits, increasing its visibility.

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In 2014, China dominated the e-commerce space with $458 billion in sales, surpassing

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the United States to become the world's largest e-commerce market.

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As ASOS expanded at breakneck speed at home and abroad,  China was a priority market.

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But the country’s e-commerce regulations were complex,

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and ASOS struggled to compete with the local juggernauts such as Alibaba and JD.com.

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After splashing $13.5 million to launch its local service in 2013,  the company withdrew from China less than 3 years after it launched.

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Back home, the competition was heating up in its backyard too. 

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Traditional retailers like Zara, under parent company Inditex, were expanding their online presence,

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while new competitors like Boohoo were  undercutting ASOS with cheaper wares.

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In 2014, $633 million was wiped off its value, following a stark profit warning from the company. 

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Its exit from China in 2016 turned out to be a blessing in disguise.

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Free to focus on other markets, it began to separate itself from the pack,

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by adopting inclusive and sustainable strategies that appealed to fashion-conscious twenty-somethings.

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Besides highlighting models of varying ethnicities, and sizes, ASOS also launched a ‘fashion with integrity‘

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program in 2010 to ensure ethical and sustainable business standards.

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In 2015, the company was ahead of its peers when it published its stance against modern slavery in supply chains. 

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Two years later, the fashion retailer published  a list of all its factories to improve the transparency

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of its supply chains, while its unannounced audits  of factories continued apace, even during the pandemic.

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And the company’s aggressive strategy to appeal to its target audience and outshine its competitors didn’t end there. 

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To fend off rivals such as Boohoo and Zalando, ASOS used social media influencers to advertise

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its clothing to younger consumers and collaborated with celebrities including

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Little Mix’s Leigh-Anne Pinnock and basketball player Ovie Soko. 

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Finally, in a bid to remain competitive, the company, provided a seamless,

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end-to-end process that enabled consumers to track every step of the delivery. 

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On the back of its strong  financial performance in 2017, 

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the company’s share price  hit a record high of $94. 

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In the fast-fashion world, speed matters.

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Fashion retailers were  churning out new designs from 

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the drawing board to the sales  floor in as little as one week.  

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The pandemic accelerated the shift to e-commerce, meaning only the fastest firms would survive.

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With most people staying indoors  and holiday plans canceled, 

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fashion retailers were  facing an existential crisis.

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Many analysts questioned  whether ASOS could be as nimble 

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as its rivals because of the sheer  number of brands under its belt.

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Zara, for example, kept  production local and close to its 

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headquarters in Spain and was used  to churning out new designs quickly. 

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ASOS was hit severely in  the first quarter of 2020, 

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with group sales plunging as much  as 25% towards the end of March.

6:53

But it recovered quickly, producing more luxurious loungewear products to cater to customers' needs,

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many of whom were now working from home as the demand shock moderated.

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By the end of June, however, its sales jumped by 10% and it posted over $1 billion in revenues.

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For many brick-and-mortar businesses, the story was much different.  

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In 2020,  Inditex, the biggest fashion group in the world, announced plans to 

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close between 1,000 and 1,200 stores, or 16% of its outlets worldwide.

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The same year, L Brands, the  parent company of Victoria Secret, 

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closed 265 stores, the H&M group shut 170,   107 while Hong Kong-listed Esprit shuttered 

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all of its 56 stores in  Asia outside mainland China.

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Moreover, the retail empire Arcadia, which owned brands like Topshop, Topman,

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Miss Selfridge and HIIT, collapsed at the end of  November 2020.

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In February 2021, ASOS acquired Arcadia’s  prized brands, leaving the physical stores out of the deal. 

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This highlights ASOS’s focus on diversifying its brands

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and the industry’s shift away from in-store shopping.

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While 2020 was a successful year for ASOS, its fortunes could change in the blink of an eye if it isn’t fast and agile enough.

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To remain competitive, it must be reactive to customers' changing tastes,

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fix its scaling issues abroad, and continue to expand its offering. 

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Thank you so much for watching our video. What do you guys think of Asos?

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Comment below, and as usual don't forget to subscribe!

 

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時尚必須不斷發展。

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但該行業在 1990 年代發生了翻天覆地的變化

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ZaraH&M Topshop 等品牌以我們現在所知的快時尚引領潮流時。

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他們掌握了拿走秀場上昂貴衣服的過程

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並在短短三週內大規模生產它們。

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時尚從未如此便宜和容易獲得。

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然後,在世紀之交,像 Asos Boohoo 這樣的在線巨頭

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將此模型提升到一個新的水平,將生產時間縮短至一周。

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行業專家將這些僅限在線的品牌稱為超快時尚。

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現在我們進入了一個新時代:實時零售。

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顛覆現狀的公司在短短三天內就能生產出衣服。

1:03

而這個時代的領袖?嗯,這是一家叫Shein的中國公司。

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Shein 每天推出大約三到四千件新的女性服裝產品,所以它是

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數量巨大,產品價格相當低,從 2 美元到 30 美元不等。

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速度非常快,產品更新

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比任何其他快時尚品牌都更頻繁、數量更多。

1:32

2022 4 月,據報導時尚這家初創公司價值 1000 億美元,

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這將使它比 H&M Zara 加起來更有價值。

1:42

伙計們,我下了一個 500 美元的 Shein 訂單,它是郵寄過來的。

1:48

你們!我等待的Shein包裹到了,讓我們打開它吧。

1:52

那麼讓我們來挖掘一下,Shein 是如何在自己的遊戲中擊敗這些快時尚品牌的?

2:04

Shein 是一家非常神秘的公司,很少公開分享其起源

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而且,正如我通過報告了解到的那樣,幾乎不可能與公司的發言人取得聯繫。

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我們確實找到了兩位多年來密切研究公司的顧問。這是我們學到的。

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CEO和創始人只見過

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幾次,是的,他真的很神秘。

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這位神秘的 CEO 就是 Chris Xu

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在搜索引擎優化或 SEO 方面經驗豐富的前數字營銷人員。

2:39

儘管 Shein 表示它成立於 2012 年,

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多位消息人士稱,它的起源故事實際上始於 2008 年的華東地區。

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就在那時,徐和他的商業夥伴創立了電威,

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據報導,這是一家電子商務企業,銷售從仿冒品到婚紗等各種商品。

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正是在這裡,徐似乎完善了最終將 Shein 推向成功的商業模式。

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2011年,許與合夥人分道揚鑣,

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並且將成為 Shein 的域已註冊。

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投資開始湧入,銷售也開始湧入。

3:18

與此同時,世界正在被一種重達 5 盎司的設備改變:iPhone

3:24

蘋果的競爭對手正在將他們自己的此類產品版本推向商店。

3:29

中國不斷壯大的中產階級在隨後的智能手機革命中發揮了巨大作用。

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突然之間每個人都在使用智能手機,所以大多數中國人都跳過了

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計算機階段和對數字世界的介紹實際上是通過智能手機進行的。

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2009 年至 2012 年間,運往中國的智能手機數量有所增長

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1300 萬增加到近 2 億,增長超過 1400%

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中國超越美國成為全球最大的智能手機市場。

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這種現象推動了該國電子商務平台的興起,例如

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比如阿里巴巴、京東,當然還有Shein

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但與大多數中國電子商務巨頭不同,Shein 對中國客戶不感興趣。

4:15

Shein 的注意力完全集中在外面的世界上。

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然而,Shein 使用的許多營銷策略都受到了啟發,並且非常相似

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面向在中國運營的中國時尚品牌以及中國電子商務網站

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在國內經營的。

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因此,如果 Shein 只針對中國觀眾,它實際上是一個更加飽和的市場

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並且無法像在西方競爭那樣在速度和價格方面進行競爭。

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Shein 的中國血統也賦予了它另一個優勢:對數據以及如何使用數據的豐富理解。

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作為一個隱私法寬鬆、人口最多的移動優先國家,

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收集用戶信息很容易。

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這為開發嚴格的算法奠定了完美的基礎。

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2015 年,Sheinside 更名為 Shein

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它通過其購物應用程序收集了大量數據

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並開發了一個系統來對 EtsyInstagram 和谷歌等網站的時尚趨勢進行評分。

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在這個階段,我認為Shein的大數據分析系統絕對具有先發優勢,

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這可以很早地識別在線上出現的一些趨勢

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所以我認為這是 Shein 成功的關鍵關鍵因素之一,也將使其在競爭中保持領先。

5:38

同年,Shein將供應鏈運營中心遷至廣州番禺區,

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一個主要的服裝製造中心。

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他們在廣州的辦公室離他們的工廠很近,所以它確實加快了溝通。

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隨著時間的推移,公司向供應商及時付款的聲譽,  

6:02

業內罕見,這意味著工廠通常會接受最低數量的訂單

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急於接受Shein的命令。

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避免這些最低訂單幫助 Shein 發展  

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另一個競爭優勢:精益模式。

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我們稱之為小訂單,快速響應。

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所以基本上這意味著 Shein 以較小的批量下訂單,然後它能夠快速

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根據市場表現進行調整。

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供應商將只生產 100-500 件作為第一批產品,大約只需三到五天即可生產。

6:40

在哪裡,如果我們將其與 Zara 等傳統快時尚玩家進行比較,

6:45

通常它會生產超過 100,000 件商品,因此,通過下小訂單,Shein 可以根據銷售業績迅速做出反應。

6:57

然後這些產品從中國直接運送給消費者。

7:01

這減少了中間商和昂貴的進口關稅。

7:04

向商店大批量發貨的競爭對手就沒那麼幸運了。

7:08

雖然這場流行病對大多數服裝行業來說是毀滅性的,但對 Shein 來說卻是件好事。

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其銷售額在 2020 年估計為 98 億美元,

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以及 2021 年的 157 億美元,Shein 正在運送到世界上大多數國家。

7:24

2021年超越亞馬遜成為美國下載量最大的購物應用,

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這些用戶在應用程序上花費了大量時間。

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但這並非一帆風順。

7:37

即使在國外放寬了Covid限制,

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他們只是在國內愈演愈烈,Shein 的成長開始放緩。

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然後是爭議。

7:49

使用數據的缺點之一是它可以

7:52

有時會看到:哦,某件襯衫在電子商務平台上非常受歡迎,

7:59

如果他們只是以更便宜的方式重新製作襯衫怎麼辦?

8:03

幾位較小的設計師已經開始使用社交媒體

8:06

聲稱Shein竊取了他們的設計。

8:10

這件上衣是我的絲綢蕾絲吊帶衫到 T 恤的仿製品。它完全一樣,他們以 10 美元的價格出售。

8:18

這是最初的設計。

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但是對於像精品服裝設計師來說,當他們的設計被複製並且有人可以從 Shein 那裡得到它時,就很難了。

8:28

這對這個行業造成了嚴重破壞,因為它所做的是它允許大公司

8:35

只是真正地賺取本可以流向小型和本地精品店和設計師的所有利潤。

8:40

不僅僅是獨立設計師。

8:43

Shein Doc Martens Levi Strauss 起訴抄襲他們的產品

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並以價格的一小部分出售它們。

8:50

據報導,Shein 將一些涉嫌違規的設計從銷售中移除

8:55

據報導,他們已經向某些設計師支付了和解金

8:59

關於版權侵權索賠。

9:02

Shein 沒有立即回复 CNBC 的評論,但確實發布了

9:07

2021 年向《金融時報》發表的聲明,

9:10

表示該公司嚴肅對待版權侵權行為。

9:14

Shein 快速生產服裝的能力也引起了監管機構的質疑

9:19

比如瑞士的公眾之眼關於其生產線的工作條件。

9:24

它的製造過程仍然籠罩在神秘之中。

9:27

Shein 告訴 BBC,它有嚴格的供應商行為準則,並且需要

9:32

如果發現不合規,立即採取行動。

9:36

它缺乏透明度,因此這可能是個問題

9:40

對於Shein,因為如果它想收集投資,那麼

9:44

它真的必須清楚,人們真的需要

9:48

對公司正在發生的事情感到安心。

英語

全部衣服來自 CNBC 國際

 


 

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